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One couple stood up, sauntered onto the wooden dance floor and began to square dance. The guitarist had slowed down the tempo for this song and was singing in his falsetto. The man spun his partner gently while other listeners swayed in their seats or tapped their shoes with the soft drum beats. 

 

Deep into the desert of Southern California stands a quaint, wood-and-brick building with large windows that look out at the mountains surrounding it. Although first built as a Hollywood set for western movies, Pappy & Harriet’s Pioneertown Palace has evolved into a popular restaurant and small venue for musicians. 

 

The hot-spot is tucked away in the middle of a mountain range, past a point where someone might think they are lost and need to ask for directions. 

 

The neon-red parking sign that points to the dirt parking lot and the delicate string lights that decorate Pappy & Harriet’s ceilings are the only sources of light for miles. The lack of street lamps help millions of desert stars shine brighter and enhance the dark sky. 

 

After starring as the backdrop for over 50 films between 1940 and 1950, Francis Aleba, Pioneertown local, bought the building in 1972 to transform it into an outlaw biker bar with delicious burritos. 

 

After its first 10 years running Aleba’s daughter, Harriet, took over the family business. She and her husband, Claude (or Pappy as he was known to most people in the high desert), opened Pappy & Harriet’s in 1982 with a new kitchen, freshly-painted sign and a modest stage to continue its desert legacy while also infusing their family atmosphere with it.

 

Pappy and Harriet were their venue’s first live performances. Pappy would play the piano, with his pet raven sitting loyally nearby, as Harriet sang to their guests.

 

Harriet’s cooking drew in people from miles away as she continued to cook her mother’s Tex-Mex cusinie but also introducing classic, Southern barbecue that could make anyone feel at home in a place off the beaten path.

 

When Pappy died in 1994, hundreds of people made the trek to Pioneertown to honor the legacy he left behind. Victoria Williams, Pappy’s touring partner, even wrote a song, “Happy to Have Known Pappy,” to give tribute to who he was. 

 

Willams sings, “We’re sad to see you go/ But we’ll always remember you, don’t you know/ Yeah yeah yeah who’s the one/ Who’s the one that made my life so fun.”

 

Linda Krantz, current co-owner of Pappy & Harriet’s, had first visited Pioneertown and Pappy & Harriet’s when she was working on a film in 1994. Although she lived in New York City at the time, Krantz says she continued to visit the restaurant and became infatuated with the amazing little town around it. 

 

Krantz and Robyn Celcia finally bought the club when it was up for sale in 2003, and both of them traded their hectic, busy lives in New York for a slower, more relaxed pace of life out West.

 

Krantz says they never intended to change Pappy & Harriet’s but only wanted to focus on bringing in great, live music.

 

“Pappy & Harriet’s has always stayed true to its roots,” Krantz says. “Present-day consumers enjoy taking a break from their fast-paced, plugged-in everyday lives.”

 

Although Pappy & Harriet’s is a small, seemingly “run down,” local barbecue spot, it has also hosted significant artistis like Paul McCartney, Robert Plant, Arctic Monkeys, Vampire Weekend and Leon Russel. 

 

The assortment of knick-knacks sitting on shelves, the brick columns in the middle of the room and the frames of all the people who have played on its stage give Pappy & Harriet’s a hometown, laid-back feel — something one might not experience in a bustling city like Los Angeles. 

 

Steven John Taylor, lead singer of Steven John Taylor and the Free Reign, has performed at Pappy & Harriet’s five times and says he likes how you could not find a place like this in Los Angeles.

 

“This is a really nice destination where you can get out of the city. It’s a good vibe, an appreciative audience,” Taylor says. “It feels different than LA, which is pretty jaded. It’s like an audience there wants you to do something crazy to entertain them. I’m just trying to play heartfelt music.”

 

Pappy & Harriet’s has become a legendary spot for music fans of any genre and was declared one of the Top-Ten Hidden Gems in the Country by Billboard Magazine in 2012.

 

Despite its blooming renown in the music world, Joshua Tree and Pioneertown locals still consider Pappy & Harriet’s their go-to spot in town.

 

Matt Adams, Joshua Tree resident, says he frequents the restaurant at least a few times a month, if not more often, and still sees many members of the local community there.

 

“It’s a real special place. It’s definitely the hub of the high desert,” Adams says. “It’s a great place for bands to play. There’s definitely a lot of people from out of town who come here nowadays but it’s still a local spot.”

 

Although the venue has hosted notable artists, Pappy & Harriet’s has refused to conform to popular trends or expectations, but rather stays completely true to its history of genuine live music and authentic barbecue.

 

“It’s a different world here. It’s got a roadhouse, honky-tonk feel. It has a lore and an energy. They’ve created that culture here,” Taylor says. “I feel like I can come here and give up my best music and do things as soulfully as possible and people will be more receptive. Other places, people might not pay attention no matter how good you’re playing.”

 

With no smoke machines, bright, flashing lights or booming sound systems, Pappy & Harriet’s chooses to focus on the music and the people there to enjoy it.

 

Abby Cathcart, senior early childhood studies major at California Baptist University, visited Pappy & Harriet’s to see City & Colour and says she was mesmerized by its simple aesthetic and the atmosphere it created.

 

“The venue has a magical feel, especially when it got dark because you could see the vast amount of stars while listening to live music,” Cathcart says. “It’s something special to have the opportunity to be at the exact same place where a part of music history occurred. Concerts are special to begin with, but putting the beauty of nature along with it is something unforgettable. Pappy & Harriet’s creates that unforgettable experience for you.”

 

Pappy & Harriet’s continues to host artists Wednesday through Sunday, some concerts requiring tickets, some for free. If one is looking for an escape from the populous, crowded city, head out to simple Pioneertown, order some barbecue and embrace the slow, magical atmosphere at Pappy & Harriet’s.

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Originally published in Pursuit Magazine, Volume 9, Issue 2 in the Winter of 2019